Draped and Tailored Garments

HISTORICAL DRAPED GARMENTS

1. Buddhist Monk Robe
The Buddhist monk robe was designed since 400 BCE. Originally, monks collected discarded fabrics and wore them as their outfit. Nowadays, people donate new robe to munks every year. But the simple concept is still as same as the original. They wrap the fabric around their body and gather it over one shoulder.


Buddhist Monk Robe
Designer - Buddha
Material - Cotton
Originated - 400 BCE, Indian Subcontinent
Date photographed - 2007, Thailand


2. Thai Ancient Garment
In the era of King RamaIV (1851-1868), Thai ordinary women dressed like the lady in this picture. They wore 2 pieces of fabric. A top is sheer fabric and a bottom is brocade fabric. For top, they wrapped around the chest and draped over one shoulder. For bottom, they wrapped fabric around their waist, gathered two hems and rolled into roll. Then place them under crotch and tuck it under belt, it then became a pant-like bottom.


Thai Ancient Garment: Sabai(top) and Jong Ka Ben(Bottom)
Designer - Unknown
Material - Cotton
1851-1868, Bangkok, Thailand


3. Veil
Firstly, veils were restricted for noble ladies and not available for common women. Then, Veils are usually seen as religious garments. And they were known as marital status later.


Noble Turkish Woman Wearing a Veil
Designer - Unknown
Material - Unknown
1870-1890, Turkey

This is an artwork from the middle age era. Virgin Mary was depicted wearing a veil.

Virgin and Child Icon
14th Century
Location - Aghiou Pavlou Monastery, Mouth Athos, Greece

Currently, veils are popular as important garments for wedding ceremony.

Young bride wears a veil
Designer - Unknown
Material - Unknown
21st century



HISTORICAL TAILORED GARMENTS

1. Dior's New Look
In 1947, after years of war and apportioning of fabric, the New Look was a post war turning point in history of fashion. The key look was a fitted jacket with a nipped in waist and full calf length skirt, which was made by lots of yards of fabric.


Dior's New Look
Designer - Christian Dior
Material - Unknown
1947, France


2. Vietnamese Traditional Dress
Here is Vietnamese traditional tunic or Aodai. It is a well fitted ¾ sleeve top with long hem. Vietnamese pair it with pants.


Vietnamese Traditional Dress: Aodai
Designer - Unknown
Material - Unknown
2002, Hanoi, Vietnam


3. Jeans
Jeans were originally patented in 1873, and they never fade from fashion scene since then. Today, jeans fit with everything, from dirty look to luxury, and have become sociology and fashion statement worldwide.


Ex-boyfriend Denim
Brand - Madewell
Material - Cotton
2009, USA


4. Calvin Klein Minimal Suit
These outfits are characterized by clean design and elegant lines, with minimal design which is the signature of Calvin Klein.


Calvin Klein Fall 2009 Collection
Designer - Francisco Costa
Material - Wool, silk Jersey
2009, New York, USA



Photo credits - corbis.com, shopbop.com, style.com
Sources - mouthathos.com, wikipedia.com

6 Social Functions of Dress

There are 6 Social Functions of Dress, which include
1. Environmental Protection
2. Decoration
3. Gender Differentiation
4. Group Membership
5. Ceremonialism
6. Sexual Enhancement

Let's look at examples of each function.

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
Clothes protect human from extreme weather. For example, Arabian wear long dress which cover most of their body to prevent them from sand stroam and strong sunlight.



DECORATION
Clothes are used for decorative purpose like these amazing costume.



GENDER DIFFERENTIATION
Since the middle ages, female and Male have started dress differently. Female's outfits is always about decoration and embellishment in order to show their femininity. And Male's apparel is an expression of strength and masculine.



GROUP MEMBERSHIP
People dress in same outfit to show their unities, which include religious, races, organization or preference.



CEREMONIALISM
When people join any ceremony, they dress up themselves with special outfit to celebrate it. Most of ceremonial dress involved with a meaning of color. For example, the white bride gown is a symbol of purity.



SEXUAL ENHANCEMENT
Dress is a chief tool for people to enhance their sexual appeal.


Sources: corbis.com, victoriasecret.com

Materials in Fashion World

Robe a l'anglaise
Fabric designer: Anna Maria Garthwaite
Material - Red silk damask
(Circa 1775, England)

This dress was made of gorgeous fabric, which was designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite. She is only one female textile designer, who worked in Spitalfields, a silk-weaving center of London. And her signature floral damasks and brocades truly represented Spitalfields style.




Stay
Designer – Unknown
Material - Multicolor silk brocade
(Circa 1750, France)

The stays, later known as corsets were a sign of feminine beauty, aristocratic display, and self-discipline. The corsetry was very popular among ladies from 16th century until the middle of the 20th century and it became a representation of an upper-class lady. This piece's materials is silk brocade, which is luxurious material, comply well with the piece's meaning: a status symbol.




Designer: André Courréges (born 1923)
Material - Light grey wool
(Circa 1968, France)

This cute dress was designed by an advanced French designer, André Courrèges, who was claimed to have invented the mini skirt. André's significant style is Space Age and futuristic designs, with crisp textiles.




Designer: Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895 – 1972)
House: Balenciaga (founded 1937)
Material - silk gazar
(1968, France)

This outstanding simple evening dress was created from the most challenging fabric: gazar, which is known as stiff textile. Balenciaga made this dress just before his retirement due to clients and materials shortage. So, he ended his career with the masterpiece.




Designer: Yves Saint Laurent
House: Yves Saint Laurent (founded 1962)
Material – wool jersey
(1965, France)

Yves Saint Laurent mixed fashion and art together in this dress that obviously inspired by Piet Mondrian’s color block artworks. The dress was made flat in simple silhouette to imply the two-dimensional canvas.




Designer: Jean-Paul Gaultier (1952)
Material – Shirred velvet
(Fall 1984, France)

The sexy dress that Jean-Paul Gaultier got a sexy design and faded color inspiration from his grandmother’s corset, become one of his most iconic pieces.
His cone-like bust designs, which later was adopted by Madonna into her famous costumes.




House: Rodarte (founded 2005)
Material – White organza, silk tulle, and feathers
(Spring 2007, USA)

Rodarte is famous for their couture-liked RTW. An extravacant, delicate design, with large selection of various materials, combined with their hand-crafted techniques make Rodarte works become a new WOW of American fashion industry.

Source: fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu
Photo credits: fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu